Jul 4

Written by: chris
7/4/2014  RssIcon

Northern Virginia

Virginia is for lovers!  Lovers of history, culture, dining and shopping.  And, yes, romance too…  Join me on my journey through the northern part of this state – Virginia’s Cultural region.


Northern Virginia has kept its own character reminiscent of colonial times with rambling plantations, equestrian farms and cobblestoned streets leading to quaint taverns, chic shops and historical gems.  As Virginia’s Cultural Region it embodies an energetic mix of history, culture, dining and shopping. Think of it as the place where indulgence meets cultural and urban adventures, the “hip and cosmopolitan side of Virginia” and the affluent travellers’ cultural paradise!

You can fill your shopping bags with amazing finds from the region's unique shopping venues, from exclusive boutiques to outlet shopping – it’s all here!  And I’m here too…ready and rarin’ to go to see all the history, arts, culture, food and drink that this lovely part of the world has to offer!

And where better to start our journey than at the home of the United States’ founding father: George Washington.  

Mount Vernon


Just 25 minutes from Washington Reagan National Airport and I’m here. Mount Vernon Estate is the beautiful home of George Washington. It is just 26 kilometers south of Washington DC…yet it exists in a different time and space. This is the most visited historic estate in America.

George Washington was commander in chief of American forces in the Revolutionary War against the British and is revered as the first president of the United States. He and his wife Martha called the riverside estate of Mount Vernon their home for more than 40 years.


Here I have the opportunity to discover the real George Washington behind the icon. I start at the Ford Orientation Center which features an introductory film, “We Fight To Be Free”. The Donald W. Reynolds Museum and Education Center with their 25 galleries and theatres, has more than 700 artifacts, and interactive displays – including the great man’s famous dentures, along with three life-size models of Washington created from forensic investigation. 

I am currently reading Joseph Ellis’ biography of Washington which makes it clear how important Mount Vernon was to Washington and my tour of the mansion itself helps to bring this remarkable life in focus. I stand under the Colonnade, looking out over the Estate grounds towards the shore of the Potomac.  Much of what I look out on is as it was in the 1700’s when it was George Washington’s home for forty years.  I have seen his small very private study, and the grand Large Dining Room. But I suspect that amidst all the Palladian architectural grandeur of the mansion, it was perhaps the peaceful, bucolic views of the grounds that George and his wife Martha most enjoyed. And today, despite the 80 million visitors who have come here over the years, the vista still soothes the soul and lifts the spirit…

 
 
   


The historic areas you can visit include the restored Mansion itself, original outbuildings, the tomb where the Washingtons are buried and the beautiful gardens. The estate also includes a working blacksmith shop and the Pioneer Farm - a 4-acre demonstration farm near the river with heritage breed animals, a reconstructed slave cabin and a 16-sided treading barn. I encounter period characters who explain their position on the estate, from slave worker to estate manager. An archaeological dig is underway beside the old kitchen and bits of 18th century glass are dug up as I watch. And I wander down wooded trails to the shores of the Potomac River just as George himself would have done 250 years ago.


Mount Vernon has provided a wonderful introduction to the history of Northern Virginia. After this memorable start, where should I go next to really experience the best of northern Virginia?  Just a few kilometers down the road is Alexandria and I have been told the Old Town there is unmissable – so I’m on my way. 

Alexandria


Within sight of Washington DC, Old Town Alexandria is just minutes from DC - but feels a world away. It’s a bustling district of chef-driven restaurants and cafes, independent boutiques and arts venues in beautifully preserved 18th century architecture. The Old Town hums with a cosmopolitan feel and walkable lifestyle loved by locals and the DC elite alike.  


Alexandria is a place to forget about counting calories and to indulge your taste buds with the many culinary experiences on offer. Alexandria native Meshelle Armstrong, her chef/husband Cathal Armstrong, and business partner Todd Thrasher, operate the highly acclaimed Eat Good Food Group and are credited with redefining Old Town Alexandria as a hip hangout and foodie destination. They operate four restaurants and a cocktail lounge in Old Town, and their Restaurant Eve has put Alexandria on the culinary map. I experienced The Demo Kitchen at Society Fair which has been named a ‘Best New Bar’ by Food & Wine magazine. Here there is a bakery, butchery, market, wine bar, and demo kitchen - all under one enchanted roof. Chef Larry prepared a Cobb Salad to die for and then very nearly did finish me off with a monumental plate of Southern fried chicken! Chef prepared everything in front of us in a tour de force of non-stop commentary and culinary magic.

After that, a walk through the picturesque Old Town was much appreciated and I ended up at the newest addition to the Alexandria riverside, The Waterfront Market. Sitting beside the Potomac River at the Alexandria Marina I enjoyed a glass of Alexandria’s locally brewed craft beer, Port City - available on tap right on the dock. A leisurely stroll through the humid evening air of Old Town takes me here to the boutique-style Hotel Monaco Alexandria, a lovely and stylish place to lay my head after a busy first day.

 


Breakfast the next day has brought me to the BRABO Tasting Room by Robert Wiedmaier on King St in Alexandria, situated in a 150-year-old historic building. As a fascinating interlude between meals, I take in a little culture with a visit to the Torpedo Factory Art Center. The original factory building here was constructed in 1918 for the manufacture of torpedoes – but it’s now a place where you can experience art in person and in progress. The Torpedo Factory features 82 working artists' studios, six galleries, the Art League School, Alexandria Archaeology Museum and gift shop – and, naturally, a cafe. I meet one of the artists who shows me the beautiful mural created for their 40th anniversary. Everywhere is friendly and accessible – a lovely way to explore art.

And another lovely way to explore the local cuisine is to take the Historic King Street Food Tour by DC Metro Food Tours. It’s chance to take a journey through one of the largest historic districts in the US, once home to both George Washington and Robert E. Lee and to sample a variety of delicious specially-made dishes from local restaurants. Along the way I learn about the colourful past of this unique area, and take in some of the best preserved historic architecture in America.

Finally here, I meet Wellington Watts, an expert on Alexandria history and the owner of Alexandria Colonial Tours - Alexandria’s original ghost tour, filled with ghost stories, legends and folklore. A great way to round off my Alexandria experiences before moving out to my next stop: Prince William County.

Prince William County


Prince William County is less than 50 kms from Washington DC and yet it is providing a peaceful taste of the Virginian countryside.  With countless historic sites, multiple choices in shopping and outdoor recreational activities - including national, state, and local parks, the County provides unique culinary options, performing arts venues and quaint historic towns.

But first – some retail therapy at Potomac Mills - one of the hottest tourist destinations in Virginia. It is the region’s largest outlet mall, featuring more than 220 stores all under one roof with savings of up to 70% every day at stores such as Bloomingdale’s-The Outlet Store,  Nordstrom Rack,  and many more. It also has over 25 eateries (spot a theme here?) and the AMC Potomac Mills 18 Theatres with IMAX.

As it’s now been many minutes since I last ate, I take in dinner at Dixie Bones Barbeque in Woodbridge where Nelson Head, the owner of the restaurant educates me on southern style cuisine, as befits the best BBQ house in Northern Virginia.


After a restful night at the Hampton Inn Potomac Mills, I enjoy a home-style All American breakfast at Montclair’s Family Restaurant in Dumfries…and marvel at the sheer range of culinary opportunities in this part of the world.

Today I am visiting one of the jewels in the crown of Prince William County – the National Museum of the Marine Corp. This is a state of the art facility that tells the story of the Marine Corp since 1775. A very hands on and experiential museum - you can feel the cold of a Korean winter or step into a Vietnam battle from a helicopter. The most moving experience however is not any of the exhibits but the docents. In particular I spoke with Frank Mathews, veteran of the landings on Iwo Jima in the Pacific theatre of the Second World War. And to hear him speak of his personal experiences brings the reality of war very much to life.

 


Then it is time to swing a club at Potomac Shores Golf Club, which opened in Spring 2014.  This Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course is the first of Nicklaus’ courses to be open to the general public. It features dramatic elevation changes, wide corridors and well-designed green complexes that wind through majestic hardwoods along the banks of the Potomac River. I take a much need putting lesson from the resident Pro and then naturally have to pause for lunch at the Tidewater Grill which overlooks the 18th hole.


You are never far from arts and culture in Northern Virginia. Historic Occoquan, located on the river, was a natural site for water-borne commerce. By 1765, it flourished as an early industrial settlement with grist mills and tobacco warehouses. Today, it serves as one of the top places to go in Virginia as a charming restored artist’s community with shops, outdoor dining, ghost walks and more. I am introduced to its charms by no less a personage than the former Mayor of Occoquan. I asked Mayor Porta where I should go to next: “If you haven’t been to Arlington, you haven’t been to Northern Virginia” he replied; so: off I go… 

Arlington

 
 


The final day of my journey around Northern Virginia has taken me to Arlington, just across the Potomac River from Washington DC. It’s a fun and eclectic mix of culture, cuisine and history. It boasts the neighbourly, small-town community vibe with all of the amenities and conveniences of major urban centre. As the smallest geographic county in all the US, Arlington packs a lot of excitement, charm accessibility and affordability into one small area.  Plus, it’s just minutes to the National Mall and other regional attractions.

First stop is a back-stage tour of the Signature Theatre at the foot of the European-style promenade of the Village of Shirlington. The Signature Theatre is a non-profit professional theatre company dedicated to producing contemporary musicals and plays, reinventing classic musicals for smaller stages, and developing entirely new works. Signature has presented 43 world premiere productions, and is renowned for combining Broadway-quality productions with intimate playing spaces.  It’s just one more reason why this area is called Virginia’s Cultural Region.

Dinner is another memorable gastronomic experience: Jaleo Spanish Tapas and Bar, just a short walk from my excellent hotel, the Renaissance Arlington Capital View. Under the direction of chef José Andrés, Jaleo offers a sensational array of tapas, the traditional small dishes of Spain, as well as savory paellas, and superb sangrias in a festive, relaxed atmosphere. Somehow I have managed to sample all of these elements!


After a suitably robust breakfast at Socci Restaurant in the Renaissance Arlington Capital View Hotel (which lives up to its name by providing fabulous views across the Potomac River to Washington), I have come to the best known local site - Arlington National Cemetery. It is a beautiful and moving testament to American history. Graves date back to Civil War times and the estate owned by Confederate Leader Robert E Lee’s wife was commandeered to form the cemetery. The many stories here are brought to life by my entertaining and immensely knowledgeable guide, Steven Carney, the Command Historian.


Arlington National Cemetery performs 27 to 30 funeral services each day. As well as military graves, you can search out the famous residents. Amongst many others you can find Presidents including William Taft and John F Kennedy. His brothers Robert and Ted are also in Arlington, as is Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis. Audie Murphy the film star and Glen Miller the big band leader are also laid to rest in Arlington. The rolling green hills are dotted with trees that are hundreds of years in age and complement the gardens found throughout its 624 acres. It’s an impressive landscape and offers impressive views across to Washington.


As well as Arlington National Cemetery there are two other memorials to American service and sacrifice in close proximity that are on my list to visit. The United States Air Force Memorial honours the men and women of the United States Air Force and its predecessor organizations. More than 54,000 Airmen have died in combat while serving in the Air Force and the historical service arms of the military.  Their memorial is a fitting one: three memorial spires range from 61 m to 82 m high. They soar in an array of stainless steel arcs against the blue sky of this scorching summer day, evoking the image of contrails of the Air Force Thunderbirds as they peel back in a precision 'bomb burst' manoeuvre. Only three of the four contrails are depicted, at 120 degrees from each other, as the absent fourth suggests the ‘missing man’ formation used at Air Force funeral fly-overs. 

My last visit on this trip is to The National 9/11 Pentagon Memorial, created to remember and honour the 184 lives lost when American Airline Flight 77 was crashed into The Pentagon at 9.37 a.m. on September 11th, 2001. It’s a simple but effective place of remembrance besides the massive Pentagon building. My guide to the Memorial is Laurie Laychak. Laurie lost her husband David that morning. As we pause by David's individual memorial, Laurie quietly tells me her deeply personal family story. Her ability to move past her grief and help others is heart-warming and inspirational.

There are times when I travel that I meet truly extraordinary people - it's one of the joys of travel. My trip to Virginia ends with one of those moments. Thank you Laurie so much for sharing your story so bravely.

Thanks

 


The Virginians we met along the way on this trip were never less than warm, hospitable and occasionally even inspirational. My thanks to Claire Mouledoux, Wendie Vestfall and Cara O’Donnell for their hard work and hospitality. Thanks also to the other knowledgeable interviewees for the Travel Show: Rebecca Aloisi – VP Marketing at Mount Vernon; Meshelle Armstrong – Culinary expert and coolness creator; Wellington Watts – History expert and ghost tour owner; Caroline Barry – Area Director of Business Development at Potomac Mills; Lin Ezell – Museum Director at the National Museum of the Marine Corps; Maggie Boland - Managing Director of Signature Theatre; and Steven Carney – Command Historian at Arlington Cemetery.

And special thanks to Sana Keller who made my journey possible and to Frank Mathews and Laurie Laychak who shared their precious memories so freely.

Travellers can order a Virginia Travel Guide, Map & brochure to Virginia's Cultural Region by calling toll free in Canada at  1-800-671-4195.  A great resource for a trip like this is the Virginia website at www.Virginia.org/VirginiasCulturalRegion

 

Copyright ©2014 Chris Robinson

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2 comment(s) so far...


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Re: Northern Virginia

Chris, it was an privilege to escort you and your colleagues from Canada during your visit to the National 9/11 Pentagon Memorial. I was deeply touched by your kindness and compassion. Thank you for taking the time to learn about the actual site of the 9/11 attack on the Pentagon and honor our loved ones. As you know, every one of the 184 benches at the Memorial has a story behind it. Mine was just one of many. The events on 9/11/01 affected the entire world. Thank you for helping to share this story to your listeners and readers.

By Laurie Laychak on   7/9/2014
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Re: Northern Virginia

Chris:
I'm glad you enjoyed your trip to Northern Virginia. Please come back soon and have dinner.

By Nelson Head on   7/10/2014

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