Apr 24

Written by: chris
4/24/2012 

Ireland is one of my favourite destinations and its people top my friendliest folk list (see my top 10 list). So when the opportunity arose to spend a few days on a Trafalgar tour called Irish Highlights - I jumped at it.  Trafalgar are all about experiences, rather than simple tours and now I understand this distinction.  Bernard, our Travel Director and host on the trip, was full of the wonderful bonhomie that distinguishes the Irish. The coach was more akin to a first class airline cabin than a simple coach.  And so relax, as I did on this trip, and enjoy a few words and images of The Emerald Isle…

Dublin: Totally Capital

After a transatlantic flight from Toronto via Heathrow, Dublin is just the place to make you forget about jet lag and get going straight away on your Irish experience! The Mespil Hotel is beside the Grand Canal and a long walk on the canal-side towpath was just the thing to get a feel for this joyous city.


Glorious Georgian buildings peeked out from under the cherry blossom and we stumbled across the birthplace of George Bernard Shaw – a quintessential Dublin experience with its huge literary heritage. Our Trafalgar city tour took us to other highlights such as St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Trinity College and the brilliant Book of Kells – a hand-drawn illuminated Gospel from 800 AD.

Kildare and Kilkenny:

Off south and westwards with our Trafalgar companions from Australia, New Zealand and the US to explore the green heart of the country. Our first stop: the Irish National Stud near Kildare where Queen Elizabeth spent some time on her historic tour last year. An Irish mist made the blossoms smell more fragrantly as we met mares and their foals, the highly prized stallions and learnt about Irish Bloodstock Industry. All the horses and foals appeared to be in seventh heaven in their verdant pastures.

Here also is a delightful surprise: the Japanese Gardens where the paths lead through grottoes besides streams and lakes to tea houses and arched bridges.


On to Kilkenny where time seems to have eddied and swirled mixing medieval lanes with modern shops. Kilkenny Castle looms over the River Nore, St. Canice Cathedral retains its Dark Ages round tower and old cobbled lanes invite the walker to stroll around. And I strolled right into the oldest house in Kilkenny…which just happens to be a pub…where I had a filling Irish stew washed down with a pint of Kilkenny dark ale under the baleful eyes of a portrait of the original 14th century owner – a witch called Alice Kyteler.

Waterford: Heart of Crystal

South again to Waterford on the coast where the Irish Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a city with a remarkable history even by Irish standards. Reginald’s Tower was built by a marauding Viking called Reginald back in 1003 and has been in continual use ever since - which makes it Ireland’s oldest continually inhabited building.


The quays and waterfront of Waterford are backed by pastel-hued terrace houses. But the most famous attraction in the city is of course the Waterford Crystal Factory and Gallery. The tour of the factory was fascinating and yes – I fell for the gorgeous work and purchased a set of wine glasses which are en route as I write.

In the evening we all enjoyed a night of craic at The Thatch Pub. Next day we remembered the awful years of the Irish Famine of the mid 19th century, when two million Irish died or emigrated – a sad monument in a field overlooking the sea gave pause for thought. Next stop: Youghal (pronounced: Yawl) a seaside town where old houses and old characters abound!

Blarney: Gift of the Gab

Blarney Castle is one of the most popular attractions in Ireland – and deservedly so. The approach to the castle is through verdant landscaped grounds and the sturdy square tower rises 25 meters above the gardens and streams.


Of course, everyone comes to kiss the Blarney Stone! To do so, you have to climb up a claustrophobic circular stone tower to the top of the tower and then lean over the parapet backwards to kiss the stone of eloquence. A local holds on to you, so it’s perfectly safe and as you regain your feet you can feel the gift of the gab giving voice to your experience!

As one notable said: “Baloney is flattery laid on with a trowel. Blarney is flattery laid on with the lips – that’s why you have to kiss a stone to get it!”

Killarney: The Magical Ring

Killarney town is full of touristy shops and nightlife – for good reason. It sits on the edge of Killarney National Park and is the perfect base for setting out on one of the world’s great drives: The Ring of Kerry. I was very happy to have a skilled driver at the wheel (our tour driver, also named Bernard) as we took a full day to drive around the Iveragh Peninsula that juts out from southwest Ireland into the Atlantic Ocean.

Frequent stops allowed us to soak up the beautiful vistas as the narrow road rises and falls among the cliffs and beaches where Ireland’s highest mountains (the superbly named Magillycuddy’s Reeks) tumble down to ocean. Rain, sun and wind just added to the experience.


Each view surpassed the last. And this memorable day – our last on the tour – was capped in fitting fashion by a unique Trafalgar feature: their “Be My Guest” evening. In this case we enjoyed the warmth and cuisine of Muckross Farm where the group dined in 1930’s style to the music of harp, penny whistle and accordion.

Thanks

This was a wonderful way to soak up the unique culture of Ireland and it was made possible through the good folk at Trafalgar: Doug and Lisa at Trafalgar Canada, and Bernard & Bernard our Travel Director and Driver in Ireland. Trafalgar’s website is: www.trafalgar.com - highly recommended!